Choosing Carpet For High Traffic Areas

Q: How do you choose carpet for high traffic areas?

A: When purchasing carpet for high traffic areas in your home, such as the family room, hallways and stairways, it is important to select durable carpet. Here are some quick tips for purchasing high performance carpet and cushion that meet the demands of a busy environment.  Some terms you should be conscious of and things to look for during your shopping: density - refers to the amount of pile yarn in the carpet and the closeness of the tufts. The denser, the better. Choose a dense, firm construction.  Twist describes the winding of the yarn around itself. Choose a tighter twist for enhanced durability.  Choose a shorter pile height. For Berber/Loop - choose a shorter, tighter yarn loop. When it comes to the cushion or pad, select the appropriate carpet cushion, or pad, according to the carpet manufacturer's requirements for type, thickness, and density. Carpet cushion is made primarily from polyurethane foam, fiber or rubber. The type and thickness of cushion needed varies according to the type of carpet. Cut pile, cut and loop, or high-level loop carpet requires a resilient, firm cushion with a maximum thickness of 7/16 inch with a minimum FHA density. Berber, and other low-pile carpet, requires a thin, dense cushion with a maximum thickness of 3/8 inch.

Considerations Before Choosing Basement Flooring

Q: What should I consider before purchasing flooring for my basement?

A: Basement flooring options are a little more involved than other flooring options. First, let me address the biggest concern—Moisture. Moisture is a concern in nearly any basement because it is below grade and the lowest surface in the home. Because of this, there are a few things you need to consider before considering the flooring types. If your basement is particularly susceptible to flooding, leaking, or seepage you will want to seal it before the installation of any flooring. This can be a costly process, but is necessary in preserving any of your future work and preventing mold problems. Humidity and condensation is another big problem. When moist air meets the cool temperatures of the basement it tends to cause condensation that allows the growth of mold and mildew. Your heating and cooling system is probably equipped with a dehumidifier that helps keep your relative humidity levels between 30-60%, which the EPA recommends for a healthy indoor environment. If your HVAC system is not equipped to handle the additional load of the basement, consider a portable unit for that area. Next, look at the surface of the cement flooring. Make sure it is level and fix any cracks or flaws. You can also use backerboard to create the smooth surface. Now you can consider what type of floor covering you would like for your newly finished space. Just like in the rest of the home, consider how you will use the space and the level of traffic it will see. Low-pile carpets are always a popular choice as they are easy to clean and resist traffic wear. Other options include all of the typical flooring options including laminates, tile, engineered wood and even concrete staining and engraving.

How To Stain Wood Trim

There is no trim more beautiful than stained wood. Stained wood trim adds a level of elegant beauty to your home. There are some things to consider before you decide to stain trim. It can be time consuming and it takes a level of technique to get the color just right so that it comes out even all the way around. With the right information, you can learn how to stain wood trim correctly.

Prepare the Wood

Fill in any nail holes or imperfections in the wood with wood filler. You will want to use a tinted filler the same color of the stain you will use. Scrape excess filler off the wood with a putty knife. Allow to dry thoroughly according to the package instructions.

Sand the patched areas with 220-grit sandpaper until smooth. If necessary, sand the rest of the wood, as well, using 100 to 120 grit for rough areas and a fine 220 grit to make the wood smooth.

Wipe down the trim with a tack cloth to remove the sawdust completely. Alternatively, you can use a clean cloth and denatured alcohol.

Stain the Wood

Shake the stain can vigorously to blend it thoroughly.

Put rubber gloves on to protect your hands from the stain and place drop cloths on the floor to protect it from drips.

Apply the stain using a clean cloth or a stain brush. You can also use a foam brush. Take care to make sure you are applying the stain evenly.

Allow the stain to dry for a short time. The longer it sits, the darker the color will be. Some manufacturers recommend allowing the stain to dry for 5 to 15 minutes.

Wipe the stain off using a clean cloth. Go against the grain, working the stain into the wood, and then wipe the wood again along the grain to make the color even. Make sure you don't remove too much stain.

Add another coat if the color isn't dark enough. Repeat the process as many times as needed to achieve the desired tone.

Let the stain dry as long as needed.

Finish the Wood

Stir the finish coat gently with a stir stick.

Apply a light coat of varnish or polyurethane in the sheen of your choice. You can pick satin or gloss. Use a stain brush, such as a pure china bristle. Brush the varnish along the grain of the wood.

Allow the varnish to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions before applying a second coat. Most manufacturers recommend 2 coats for a stronger, more durable finish.

Cleanup. Use paint thinner to clean your brushes when using solvent based stains and finishes. Use soap and water to clean your brushes when using water based stains.

Tips

You have 3 choices when choosing stain. Oil-based stains, water-based stains and gel stains.

Before you begin, test the stain on a scrap trim board or a hidden area of the trim to make sure it is the color you want. You may want to experiment with the length of time you let the stain set and the amount of coats you use.

You may need to seal the wood with a "stain controller" before staining to make the stain a more even color if you are using softwoods, such as maple, cherry, poplar, birch or pine. These woods tend to get splotchy if you do not seal them prior to staining.

Work in a well-ventilated area for safety and to aide in drying time.

Avoid using thick coats of varnish, as this could cause the finish to wrinkle or drip while drying. It is best to use 2 thin coats rather than 1 thick one.

You can use an artist brush to remove any lint that you find in the finish coat before it dries.

Warnings

Be careful that you do not sand the trim unevenly. Uneven wood textures will make the stain an uneven color.

Never shake the finish coat before using it. Shaking it will leave bubbles in the finish.

Things You'll Need

Colored wood filler

Putty knife

220-grit sandpaper

110- to 120-grit sandpaper

Tack cloth or clean cloth and denatured alcohol

Stain

Clean cloth, stain brush or foam brush

Rubber gloves

Stain brush or foam brush

Stir stick

Varnish or polyurethane

Pure china bristle trim brush

Soap and water

Pricing Carpet By The Square Foot?

Q: Why did the flooring industry ever go away from pricing carpet by the square yard?

A: In the last 5 years or so, it has become the industry standard to price carpets by the square foot. Most people relate to square feet better than they do to square yards. Square feet is simply length multiplied by width, and for most, this is simple math that they already know. Square yards was always deemed as an “industry secret” but for those who knew that it was simply square feet divided by nine, it made them feel as if they had inside knowledge of the industry. For our carpet store, we show both prices as they are the same price simply figured two different ways. Also, as hard surface products become more mainstream and available to the general public, it makes it easier to compare the price of carpet to tile, wood or laminate, as hard surface products will always be priced by the square foot as to not scare the customer away. Either way, it is the total price of the job that is important. It is best to always have your area measured by a professional and to have a complete bid based on all materials as well as any labor that may be involved.

How To Replace An Interior Doorknob

How to Replace an Interior Doorknob

Whether they're too stiff or too loose or just too worn and outdated, interior doorknobs are something you can easily replace yourself. Here's how.

Steps 1: Obtain a replacement doorknob. Besides the style, look for something solid that will hold up to regular use and last a long time. Also, consider whether this will go on a bedroom, bathroom or closet. Should it have a privacy lock? If you have lever-style handles and a locking handle, you will need to get a right- or left-handed handle appropriate to the door direction. Buy a doorknob with a pawl the same length as the one you are replacing.

Step 2: Remove the two screws on the face plate. Twist counterclockwise to remove.

Step 3: Remove the two screws on the knob plate. The handles will come loose, so be prepared for both sides to fall.

Step 4: Pull the handles off both sides.

Step 5: Push the faceplate and pawl out through the opening.

Step 6: Loosen the two screws on the strike plate and remove the strike plate.

Step 7: Some doorknobs come with a choice of face plates. On this one, you can replace the face plate by prying it off with a flat-blade screwdriver. Select the face plate that matches the opening in your door.

Step 8: Size up the new strike plate and pawl mechanisms with the holes in your door and door jamb.

Step 9: Use a hammer and chisel to adjust the openings in the door and door jamb, if necessary.

Step 10: Push the new pawl mechanism and face plate into the door. Be sure the pawl faces the way the door will close, so the slanted side will meet the strike plate. Pushing with your hands should work. Otherwise, you may have to drill the hole a bit larger. Alternatively, you can place a block of wood against the face plate and tap on the block of wood with a hammer. The black plastic collar shown in the photo can help to take up extra diameter if the opening is loose.

Step 11:Screw down the pawl mechanism, making sure it is as level as possible.

Step 12: Insert the handles into the door so that the square peg fits through the square opening and the screw holes align with the threaded cylinders on the other side. Check that levers and locks face the right directions.

Step 13: Insert and tighten the screws that hold the handle.

Step14: Install the strike plate.

Step 15: Check that everything fits and closes properly, and make any necessary adjustments.

Tips

• A rotary tool, such as a Dremel tool, can be used with an end-cutting bit to shave off excess wood and adjust the slots, if you're careful. A hammer and chisel are usually faster, safer, and more accurate, though.
• If the old strike plate is okay and matches, you could just let it be. It's not a part that wears out or gets much attention.
• Read the instructions that come with your replacement doorknob, too. They may have tips specific to that model.
• Once each pair of screws is snug, try tightening them both a final time. Sometimes one will loosen a bit as the other tightens. Don't over-tighten, though, especially on the wood screws.
• Sitting on a low stool or chair can make it easier to work at this height, especially if you're doing any chiseling. A doorstop or other object to keep the door still can help, too.
• If the old wood screws have left mangled wood that will not take a screw, fill those holes with a hard Spackle or car bonder. Wait until dry, drill pilot hole, and place your new screws.

Warnings

• Wear safety glasses when working with a chisel or rotary tool. Follow manufacturer's instructions and keep long hair, loose clothing, and fingers clear of a rotary tool.
• Proceed slowly when removing wood. It is much easier to remove a little wood than to add some.
• Follow basic chisel safety rules: never chisel towards your hand, always use a very sharp chisel, and use the correct sized chisel. Do not use a chisel if you do not know how.
• Most interior doors have hollow cores, which means you will not have much wood to work with. If your pawl is too long, for example, there will be little wood to drill out, so work carefully: measure twice and cut once.
• Check to make sure that knobs are on securely and work on both sides before closing the door!

DO NOT LOCK YOURSELF IN!

Installing Carpet Over Carpet

Q: Should you put carpet over carpet?

A: While many people do install rugs on top of wall-to-wall installations, doing so will result in various degrees of success. Most people consider this option to protect their carpeting from excessive wear but not knowing some of the factors concerning wear patterns, fiber, dyes, and residue can actually lead to more harm than good. Here are some things to consider: When choosing your runners, consider the backing. Remember that the backing will be against your carpeting and one that is rough may cause more wear as it moves with traffic. It may even act a bit like sand paper between your feet and the carpeting beneath it. Give careful consideration to what you use to grip the carpet as well, thinking about such things as whether it will leave considerable residue. Another concern is that the backing will trap a lot of dirt and debris, which is now also between your feet and the rung beneath it. The color of the runner is another factor. When using runners, remember that some transfer of color from the runner to the carpeting is always possible. Runners over carpet can also cause a problem with uneven color and wear rate, especially in places of direct sunlight. The type of fiber is another consideration. Different carpet fibers will have different areas of strength and weakness, and how they interact. For example, a wool rug over nylon may create a problem with color transfer, and nylon over wool may create a problem of holding in too much moisture. The best thing to do is see your floor specialist with the name and product number of your carpeting. A carpeting expert will be able to give you some suggestions that will keep your carpet in great shape.

Do I need to stick with a plain area rug

Q. My room already has a lot of patterns in it, do I need have to stick with a plain rug?

A. This is a frequently asked question, as mixing patterns can be confusing. If your goal is to emphasize your furniture and accessories, then choose a plain rug todownplay the floor. However, it is not necessary to get a plain rug because you are working with patterned furniture or a “busy” room. When it comes to an area rug, you can mix and match patterns as long as there is commonality between color palettes and a balance of size and scale with other fabrics used in the room.

Things to consider:

• What activities will go in this room?
• What will be the wear and tear?
• How heavy is the foot traffic?
• Do I want the rug to draw attention, or harmonize by being the same?

If you are placing the rug under a dining table, in a heavily used family room, or in an entry way, a patterned rug with a mixture of colors will help conceal spills and hide dirt between cleanings. Area rugs can make a design statement. Choose a rug that will define the room’s personality. A “formal dining room” or “formal living room” will have a different personality than a “casual family room” or “country kitchen”. A bold pattern can give your room new life. But if you want to play it safe by choosing one colorful print then using neutrals and solids in the rest of the space, there’s nothing wrong with that either. A light colored rug can also help a small space feel brighter. Think of your rug as a wardrobe! You can easily mix and match patterns in clothing, “pick up” and tie colors in together using accessories like scarves, jewelry or shoes. Keep in mind that the secondary colors in the rug should guide your choice of upholstery, lamps, vases, books, pillows, art, or flowers. Mix up the patterns by using floral, geometric and stripes to give some variety. Think large, medium, and small. Mix large floral patterns with smaller geometric print and stripes. It is not necessary to use print or patter in every corner of the room. Give patterns some space. Use color pallets that vary with well spaced accessories. Besides, “match” is a loosely used term. “Blend” is a better word when mixing and “matching”.

Carpet Shedding

Q: I had new carpeting installed this month and it seems to be shedding, why is that?

A: Everything is ok; this is a very common characteristic of new carpet. This is quite common and should not be of concern as the shedding will gradually diminish over time.  Once a carpet is created in the mill, that carpet is sheared or has it’s pile cut to the necessary height desired for that particular style. While styles and lengths vary on all carpets, each carpet is sheared as a process in the mill.  While most of the excess fibers are removed from the carpet during this process, some will stay on the carpet after it has been manufactured and rolled up.  When you purchase a new carpet, it will contain fibers that come free from the pile with foot traffic or vacuuming. We in the industry call these “free fuzzies”. After a few months of regular vacuuming, the shedding will diminish. 

Preventing Carpet Problems

Q: How can I make sure my carpet looks as good as possible for as long as possible?

A: Last month we addressed some problems that often occur in carpet in regards to shedding, static, tufting, crushing, texture surface retention and depressions and indentations. This month I thought it would be good to talk about the steps you can take in order to try and avoid those problems as much as possible. You should be aware that some problems with carpet just naturally occur, but keeping these next few things in mind might help alleviate how soon those problems occur.

Power Streching – Wrinkles are a combination of the following factors: humidity and temperature at the time of the installation, improper use of the power stretcher, improper cushion and the quality of the carpet. In Kansas, the humidity and temperature can vary greatly making the carpet hard to work with in cold weather and causing the carpet to loosen with the change in seasons. Ideally, carpet has time to acclimate before installation and heating is absolutely required to allow the installer to work with the carpet to get a proper installation. CRI (Carpet & Rug Institute) standards require that stretched in carpet be power stretched. Power stretching is a tool with a head that has pins, a pump handle and poles that are braced against an opposing wall. While a knee kicker is a useful tool during the installation it is impossible to get a proper stretch without the use of a power stretcher. CRI standards state that an inappropriate use of cushion may result in wrinkling and buckling and that the cushion thickness should not exceed 7/16 inch. Most manufacturers suggest a firm dense cushion for the best performance. Higher quality carpet will normally have either a higher pic backing or “softbac” that are construction methods that help reduce the need for a re-stretch, however, these enhancements do add to the price of the carpet. Any reputable installer or retail store offers a re-stretch as part of the installation warranty to account for the known factors that cause this wrinkling. Re-stretching your carpet does require the rooms to be emptied and involve an installer using a power stretcher to remove the wrinkles and to trim back the excess carpet.

Seam Placement – Assuming your seams are constructed to CRI (Carpet & Rug Institute) standards by a qualified installer, seam visibility is part of a broadloom carpets appearance. Most rooms are wider than 12’ wide, thus requiring a seam and visibility cannot be guaranteed. The largest factor in determining how visible a seam will be is to analyze the lighting in the room. Seam construction perpendicular to a light source will create a shadow that will be easily seen. When determining the material necessary the estimator should provide a scale drawing and note any significant windows, doors or other light sources. Every effort should be made to reduce the number of seams by reducing fill pieces or considering a carpet that comes in 15’ or 13’6” widths. This will help remove seams. Many times, by purchasing a couple more yards, a seam can be removed or moved if seam visibility is a big issue. The style of carpet being chosen also has a significant effect on seam visibility, looped carpets or those with pattern matches are more difficult to hide then a textured or a frieze piece. An improperly made seam may also be the culprit if the edges are gapped or overlapped. A seam may be remade at least once, however, this is usually not going to solve the problem. Proper planning and discussions with your retailer and installer are the best way to ensure that you will have the best seam placement possible.

Padding - When purchasing carpet, the proper cushion is an important factor in the long-term wear and satisfaction of the installation. Proper cushion provides additional support to the carpet improving seam performance, reducing buckling or the need for re-stretching and most importantly, improves the comfort of the carpet as you walk on your floor. Cushion is measured in thickness and weight. Generally most manufacturers suggest a firm, dense cushion no thicker than 7/16”. The most popular forms of construction are re-bond cushion, solid polyurethane and rubber cushion. Re-bond cushion is taken by using recycled foam primarily from furniture manufacturers. It is the most economical and popular but can have inconsistencies including hard spots. It is also likely to breakdown over time. Solid polyurethane is also a foam cushion but does not have the inconsistency problems. Rubber cushion is the firmest and densest cushion available. Generally it is a good idea to replace the cushion whenever you replace your carpet considering all the dirt and spills that accumulate over the years. However, some cushions are now treated to be antibacterial which helps prevent the growth of odor and stain causing mold, mildew, fungus and bacteria before they become a problem.

Cleaning - The absolute most important part of the long-term satisfaction of your carpet comes from how well you maintain the carpet. The most overlooked is simple vacuuming. Frequent vacuuming is important with the minimum of once a week. High traffic areas such as around doors or in living rooms will likely require more vacuuming depending on the number of people entering the home. It is also important to have a vacuum powerful enough and in good working order. Each particle of dirt has hundreds of razor edges that act to cut your carpet fibers creating traffic patterns if not properly vacuumed. Vacuuming alone does not remove all the dirt embedding in your carpet. There are a number of different methods of cleaning available ranging from dry powder cleaning to hot water extraction. Most carpet manufacturers suggest, and some require, a specific method as outlined by the IIRC at least every 18 months in order to maintain the manufacturer’s warranty. Hot water extraction or “steam” cleaning is a method that involves pre-spraying the carpet with a cleaning agent and then removing the agent and dirt with clean hot water. While there are several do-it-yourself options available on the market, it is suggested to use a professional to ensure that there is enough suction power to properly remove all of the cleaning agent and the water. Leaving any of the agent in the carpet will actually attract dirt and make the carpet look dirty quicker.

More next month…

Common Carpet Problems

Q: What are some common problems associated with carpeting?

A: When purchasing carpet, you should be aware that just like all flooring products, there are often different characteristics of carpets that could cause the appearance of that carpet to change over time. They are quite common and should not be cause for concern as they can often be controlled or prevented.

Let me try and provide a brief description of some of them.

Shedding - Most new carpets contain fibers that come free from the pile with foot traffic or vacuuming. After a few months of regular vacuuming, shedding will diminish.

Static - A static charge can build up when humidity is low, particularly when temperatures outside are colder than those inside. Humidifiers may help control static, but as time goes by, your carpet will hold less of a charge. This is also a common characteristic of older carpets, as newer carpets have been made specifically to no hold charges any longer.

Tufting - Occasionally loose tufts stand higher than the carpet surface. The solution is easy. Just snip off tufts to create uniform height. Be sure not to tug at the fiber. Tugging can cause permanent damage.

Crushing - Crushing is the loss of pile thickness because of foot traffic. Crushing is not considered a manufacturing defect unless it is specifically cited in the manufacturer’s warranty. Regular vacuuming may help reduce the crushing that results from traffic. A manufacturers’ definition of crushing may vary.

Texture Surface Retention - Carpet in heavily traveled areas receives the most wear. For better appearance and longer carpet life, try to reduce the amount of traffic on these areas or use small rugs in front of heavily used chairs or furniture. Remove and clean these rugs while vacuuming the primary carpet or rug. You should occasionally move furniture and reverse area rugs. Although some change will eventually occur in the texture of your carpet, reducing the wear on paths and in front of furniture will slow this change.

Depressions or Indentations - The weight of heavy pieces of furniture can cause indentations in carpet. Some depressions may be permanent. Use furniture glides or cups under the legs of heavy pieces, or move your furniture a few inches backward or sideways so that the weight is not concentrated in one place. To remedy depressions, work the carpet pile back into place with your fingertips or the edge of a spoon, then, dampen the area and heat it with a hair dryer, working the fibers with your fingers or a spoon.

 

How to Get Rid Of That "Musky" Smell

Q: Like many other homeowners, we have a “musky” smell in our basement. What can be done? What about carpeting?

A: There are quite a few options available to you.The musky smell is usually caused by moisture and/or bacteria. It is important to make sure your basement is well ventilated. Check the drainage around your house and try to landscape the water away from the house as much as possible. It may also be advisable to have a dehumidifier installed. This is a machine that actually pulls the water out of the air. Once you have these things done, the selection of the proper padding and carpet is crucial. There are some pads that will actually resist and inhibit the growth of bacteria. So when you start the decision process on selecting you flooring, it is important to select an anti-bacterial carpet pad that is specifically made to be resistant to bacteria growth. This way it is neutralized before it can grow and start to smell. There are also carpets that are infused with colloidal silver. The colloidal silver kills the bacteria and keeps the room smelling fresh. These are premium carpets and they are offered in a variety of styles and colors. If replacing the carpet or pad in your home is not an option, there are a variety of over the counter cleaner's and deoderizer's that are available at most of your full service flooring stores. With these techniques and all of the different varieties and different styles available to you, you will be able to have a beautiful basement free from that annoying musky smell.

 

Considerations For Basement Flooring

Q: What are some of the things I should consider before choosing flooring for my basement?

A: There are a number of different issues to considerwhen choosing flooring for your basement. The biggest concern you must first address is moisture. Moisture is a concern in nearly any basement, because it is below grade and the lowest surface in the home. Because of this, there are a few items you need to consider before selecting a floor. If your basement is particularly susceptible to flooding, leaking, or seepage, you will want to seal it before the installation of any flooring. This can be a costly process, but is necessary in preserving any of your future work and preventing mold problems. Humidity and condensation is another big problem to keep in mind. When moist air meets the cool temperatures of the basement, it tends to cause condensation that allows the growth of mold and mildew. Your homes heating and cooling system is probably equipped with a dehumidifier that helps keep your relative humidity levels in line between 30-60%, which the EPA recommends for a healthy indoor environment. If your HVAC system is not equipped to handle the additional load of the basement, consider a portable unit for that area. Next, look at the surface of the cement flooring. Make sure it is level and fix any cracks or flaws in the flooring. If the concrete floors is to rough to patch, you can also use either backer board or a substrate membrane to create a smooth surface.

If you have taken all of these items into consideration, and have made sure your floor is as prepared as it can be, you are now ready to move onto the last step. You can now consider what type of floor covering you would like to put down in your newly finished space. Just like in the rest of the home, consider how this space will be used, and the level of traffic it will see. Low-pile carpet’s, and especially prints now, are always a popular choice as they are easy to clean and resist traffic wear. Other options include all of the typical flooring options including laminates, tile, and engineered
wood. Since you are working with a concrete floor in a below grade area, you might want to consider some of the floating or loose lay options that each of these types of flooring comes in now.  Whatever flooring option you chose though, knowing that your floor is properly prepped for many unforeseen problems, means you should have less problems down the road!

Young children, pets and carpet

Q: I have young children and we are thinking of getting some new carpet. Can you tell me about spots and stains before we embark on such a mission.

A: With children who may constantly spill their drinks, drag in mud from the outside, allow their pets in unapproved areas, and are involved in a number of different spots and stains that end up on the carpet, choosing the right carpet can be a burdensome task. Unfortunately when there are small children involved, there is no carpet that is totally stain-proof. Many times retail salespeople will indicate that their particular product will allow most spills to clean up with just water. That is not an entirely true statement, but once you get educated about proper carpet cleaning solutions, with a little practice, you will be able to remove the majority of spills before they become permanent spots. This will take a bit of practice and lots of patience. Let’s start by distinguishing between spills, spots, and stains.

A spill is a fresh mishap. On most types of carpet, fresh spills will come out easily if the soiled area is dealt with swiftly. With most spills, it takes time before they attach themselves to the carpet fibers making it difficult to remove them. If, however, the spill is not dealt with quickly, a spot will most likely develop. A spot will be noticeable after the spill has dried and may require additional measures such as carpet cleaning solutions in order to get rid of the spot. Allow some extra time to deal with this problem. An example might be the can of soda which spills and which has a high sugar content. If the spot is not removed properly, the sugar will continue to attract dirt. You have seen after a time that a spill will reappear. This is because the spot was not removed properly at the time. You might expect that red drink spills might be even more difficult to remove but not know why. The reason is that the carpet industry uses the same dyes that are in red drinks to dye its fibers. Because of that, such spots may require professionals using special cleaning agents or the spots may become a permanent stain. Unfortunately there are some permanent stains that are…well…permanent. Examples of these would include a stain where color is added to the fiber like with iodine or betadine. Opposite examples would include stains where the color has been removed, like with bleach or skin medications. Some stains might be removed and yet still reoccur. Stains that reappear can be caused by a number of reasons, one of which is the use of a detergent solution that attracts soil. Wicking is another factor which might occur. Wicking happens when the stain draws up from the base of the carpet fibers or the carpet backing itself. A red food dye stain may be absorbed by the carpet backing and actually spread. That is why any stains should be treated quickly and thoroughly.

A good idea is to bring in a specialized carpet cleaner at least once every 24 months who will reapply a fresh topical treatment. This will help to prolong the time before stains attach. Such a treatment increases the surface tension and thus spills just bead on the surface. These treatments do diminish over time because of wear and tear and carpet cleaning, so reapplication is necessary ever so often. These suggestions are general rules of thumb for most spills. If you follow these recommendations, the number of permanent stains that you encounter even with your young children and pets will be limited.

Keeping Wood Floors Clean

Q: How do I keep my new hardwood or laminate floor clean and looking new?

A: Taking care of hardwood and laminate floors can be a complicated process. But when done properly, the process can be quick, easy and painless. The first and most obvious solution is maintenance. Build-up of dirt and dust on your floor can lead to a dulling, or even scratching of the surface. Sweep your hardwood floors often with a soft-bristle broom. Laminate floors can also be vacuumed. Most vacuums come with a soft brush attachment that won’t scratch or scuff your floor. Another option for regular maintenance is dusting. A dry mop, or dust mop with a cotton head can be used on a regular basis to pick up dust from your floor in a matter of minutes.

Keeping your floor shiny and spotless is where the process begins to get tricky. Excess water can damage flooring, so be sure to remove spills immediately with a soft towel or mop and dry completely. For regular mopping maintenance, slightly dampen a mop or cloth and lightly coat your floor. Once more, make sure to dry thoroughly afterwards.  Try using products that are made specifically for wood or laminate and be sure that nothing damages the luminosity and coloring of your floor. If need be, a well-known “trick of the trade” for removing tough spots on hardwood floors such as markers, paint, ink or lipstick is to use acetone-based nail polish remover on a clean cloth, then wipe immediately with a damp cloth. Again, always avoid allowing liquids to stand on your floor for any extended period of time.

Placing carpet runners and area rugs in heavily trafficked areas, such as entry ways and hallways can help divert any problems before they arise. Rugs help by trapping dirt in one place, making for easier cleaning. Also, using pads under furniture is a sure-fire way to avoid scratching caused by furniture. These pads can be purchased atJabara's or most any flooring store. Keep an eye on shoes worn in the home as some heels can leave dents in hardwood floors. It might help to have guests and residents remove shoes before entering a room with hardwood flooring. Ultimately, hardwood and laminate flooring is all about maintenance. By dusting floors regularly, most problems can be avoided before they arise, and you will be able to enjoy your clean and shiny hardwood or laminate floors for many years to come.  

Water Damage to Carpet

Q: With the recent rains, our basement leaked and therefore our carpet got wet. What are our options?

A: When water mixes with carpets or other flooring, there can always be damage. Water damage can be severe and sudden. One moment everything at home is apparently fine, and then in the very next moment, you have an enormous water problem on your hands. Water damage can occur because of broken pipes, flooding, or even heavy storms. 

Properly disposing of carpet, vinyl, or hard wood can sometimes be a hassle. Household items that have been damaged by water and left untreated for a long time can pose serious health hazards, creating unsanitary health conditions. Mold and mildew damage caused by water problems can result in serious contamination and sanitation concerns. In all water related situations, water extraction is the first step in the process of drying and sanitizing your home. Focusing on drying your home and disinfecting it can help save your carpet or other flooring, and keep the damage caused by water under control.

If wall to wall carpeting has been wet it probably should be removed and disposed of. However in some cases it can be removed and cleaned and then reinstalled. If wet carpet is removed and cleaned within the first 24-48 hours you might have a chance of saving the carpet.

When a carpet stays wet for a long time it is usually ruined, but if you get to it quickly, you can save the carpet.  The first thing to do is take the carpet up. Change the padding and tack strips in any area affected by water. Tack strips should be cleaned and dried. Carpets in basements should be cleaned and dried and make sure there is no mold or bacteria in the house. If it is a concrete slab or basement area, dry the area as soon as possible to prevent CO2 poisoning or mold in the home. Making sure the substrates are clean and dry is the best way to know that you are safe.

Area Rug Pad. . . Do I Need One?

One of the most frequently asked questions we get from our customers purchasing an area rug for their home is whether or not they need an area rug pad to go with it. Although it’s not always necessary, there are several good reasons to purchase an area rug pad along with your new rug.

An area rug pad prolongs the life of your rug. . . By acting as a barrier between the rug and the floor underneath it, an area rug pad prevents premature wear to your rug. Instead of the back of your rug wearing against the hard floor, the rug pad absorbs this stress which allows your area rug to last and look better longer.

An area rug pad prolongs the life of your floor. . . A quality rug pad also prolongs the life of your floor by preventing scratches and indentations to the floor. Over time dust can build up underneath your rug. When that happens the backing of the rug mixed with dust can act like sandpaper and slowly scratch your floor. When we walk, we tend to shuffle our feet more than actually step with them. In this case, the pad will prevent the backing of the rug from scratching your floor.

An area rug pad makes for a healthier environment. . . Another nice advantage to having an area rug pad is that it creates airflow underneath the rug which allows for better suction when vacuuming. The airflow also prevents odor causing bacteria like mold and mildew to inhibit the rug. The area rug pads are also treated with a built in antimicrobial. Since the area rugs pads are made with PVC they can be washed in cold water and air dried!

An area rug pad won’t harm your hard surface. . .  Some people worry about whether a pad will harm their hard surface. Pads made of rubber have been known to discolor a floor over time. However, pads made of PVC (Polyester fabric coated with high-grade vinyl compound) have not been an issue thus far.

The rug pad should be at least one inch less on all four sides than the rug size in order to allow the edges of your rug to relax to the floor and avoid any trip hazards. When the rug pad is smaller than the rug, you will not be able to see the rug pad sticking out. Since most area rug pads come in a variety of different standard sizes, you can easily cut them with a pair of scissors to fit your rug size. Area rug pad is very versatile, so make sure not to discard the overage. Any leftover pad can be used under couch cushions, between mattresses, as cabinet liners, or under furniture legs to keep from sliding and scratching!